It connects to the switch on the side of the transmission on the passenger side. As you remove this you will hear the brushes ping off the commutator, and wonder how you are going to get them on again. If the voltage doesn't rise above 12. Thanks, Tom Tom Gillett We'll be anxious to hear from you Tom. End of update All pretty straight-forward, I made a cardboard template for the complex hole in the heelboard, and cut it out using a combination of drills, little grinding wheels and a metal cutter. How to make it start! As well as having a certain amount of logic in that the key handle points in the same direction as current flow down the cable when it is on, and across the cable when it is off, it also means the two connections on the back are equally accessible rather than having one on top and one underneath.
Control Box: The control box monitors the output voltage from the dynamo and when this has reached 12. Much better, but having painted the seconds hand as well, I found I was having to look at it for two or three seconds, or several times in that time, in order to see where the other two hands were pointing to get the correct time! This reduces the voltage at the field winding, which reduces the output voltage and current, and hence the charging current, allowing the battery voltage to fall back slightly. So if the engine is running and the charge does fail at some point, then you have a very good chance that the warning light will come on and tell you about it. Mk2 non-North American cars had a pull-on switch until 1971 changing to separate switch and warning light in 1972, Mk2 North American cars had separate switch and warning light until 1973 when it changed to a pull-on type with integral warning lamp. This protects them to some extent from driving rain and dirt, whereas the position of the spades on at least one other type means they have to point forwards.
Your reverse light switch is on the left side of the tranny. If any of the above doesn't work, the horns don't. Now turn on headlights, brake lights, heater fan etc. Car batteries contain a large amount of energy and can discharge it very rapidly under the wrong conditions, generating large sparks, toxic fumes, even exploding and showering corrosive liquid around. However for a dynamo equipped car Ampere-hours is more of an issue as at idle or low revs, especially with lights, wipers etc. I had also added the inertia switch and mounted it next to the Comp9 and it can be seen in the pictures. My first thought for not being able to switch off was a sticking ignition relay, but they were only provided from 1977 and this was a 76.
Some batteries come with one or two lips on the bottom edge for clamp brackets on modern cars, which can make the difference between fitting and not fitting. Some things low current items will work almost normally, higher current items probably not. The only thing that i fail to understand is what is the configuration of the wires looking at the back of the alternator. The voltage regulator is a sealed electronic module which constantly varies the voltage fed back to the field windings from the output, according to the voltage of the output - i. If the voltage is closer to 14v at the alternator then there is a bad connection somewhere between the alternator and the brown at the fusebox, check the voltage on each brown wire and the battery cable at the solenoid. Lighting circuits have stated wattages for all the bulbs which can be used to calculate current - add all the wattages together, then divide that by 12 volts to give amps.
The reason the warning light didn't come on is because it is comparing the voltage at the alternator with the voltage at the rest of the cars electrical system. This happens elsewhere where there are two or more greens for example on a component - again one is bringing power in and the other is daisy-chaining it on to another component. Most of us add an in-line fuse between the power source and the on-off switch something the factory did not do as a precaution. There are after-market, crimp-on spades and bullets available, male and female in both cases, colour-coded for current carrying capacity - red 5amp , blue 15amp and yellow in increasing capacity and conductor size. You don't state what the problem is, but I'm guessing it's that your lights won't turn off, right? Under fault conditions the battery voltage could be reducing but an ammeter stills shows a slight charge, or conversely an overcharging fault could gradually be raising voltage higher and higher but still not be showing an excessive current.
I only ever use crimp bullets for new work if I have the opposite gender on the wire it is connecting to, for anything connecting to existing wiring I always use a standard connectors and brass bullet. If more than the typical 10A max of a hobbyists meter it could damage the meter, but more importantly create a spark when it is connected and disconnected, which could ignite battery gases. It looks to me like an 80s mini item with the shiny metal fixed button on the end. Note that North American Mk2s, and other markets for the 1970 model year, moved the horn push to a column stalk. It had just been loose in the cradle, so along with the new 6v batteries and interconnecting cable I got two clamp kits. However it moved to a column stalk again for the 77 model year to the end of production. If adjusting the screw doesn't bring it back to sounding normally then you might as well open it up and see if it can be fixed, you have nothing to lose.
This is irrespective of whether there is 0v on both circuits ignition off, engine stationary or 12v actually around 14v when charging on both circuits ignition switched on and engine running and charging. Prior to the 77 model year both dynamo and alternator used a flat link 12H67 or 2A497 and a pillar 2A128 on the engine front cover. The power comes in on one of the wires, and goes out on the others as well as going through the fusebox. He wondered whether his voltage regulator was faulty, which led to finding the above figures for replacements. A pair of 21W indicator bulbs adds 3.
The relay operates, introducing the same resistance into the field circuit, which again reduces the field voltage and hence the output current, to protect the dynamo against overheating and damage. Contacted them and they , so ordered two. There can also be bad connections at the fusebox between the end caps and the fuse holders, between the fuse holders and the spade terminals, and between the spade terminals and the spade connectors, so each of these points need testing as well,. Horns Updated September 2013 Description: Also originally there was only one pair of wires for the horn as the second horn was optional. The Prince of Darkness hit me on one outing as I parked the car and went into a meeting for about forty minutes. I did find the diagrams you mentioned. I suddenly realised that neither of mine have this clip, nor has a spare I took off a Metro years ago, but I do remember them from earlier cars.