Note the cut off 6mm ball end and ¼ drive extension and 6mm socket. I bought the bike used and have never changed it. You also need to be sure to tighten the lock nut adequately. When you put on the manual one set it really loose, start bike and let it idle. It will be on your left if facing the motorcycle from the front. The airbox is now held by two breather hoses, one each side diagonally apart.
This way the automatic tensioner functions as as designed by Kawasaki, and the bolt is a failsafe preventing the slider from backing up enough to jump time under any condition. Don't forget the rear choke cable runs over the top and to the side. Try to pull them by the connectors and not the wires otherwise you risk pulling the wire out from the connector. If an aftermarket manual unit is available for a sensible price, I'd fit one and adjust it religiously at regular intervals. Be careful not to damage the rubber gasket.
Rotate the crank shaft counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet or breaker bar… While adjusting the tenisioner bolt in. Remove the three trim clips that hold it in place. You get that bb's in a can sound around 5000 rpm. This will be the 4th? And after searching around more on the internets I ordered one last night. Once your happy that all alignment marks line up you can then check the markings on the end of the cam sprockets as you did with the rear. I searched around on here but didn't find much, other than cam chain tensioners and how they can fail.
Then I would turn the motor over, and make sure I could not find a loose spot in the cam chain. Rotate the crank slowly over again to make sure valves are not out of time and hitting the piston. I have yet to need to adjust the one in my Zephyr with over 10,000 miles on the manual tensioner. It's just with the manual tensioner there's no accurate adjustment. Those chains are the same design used in some automobiles that run for about a lifetime and on the primary drives of many in-line fours. And Thats exactly what happened.
When you feel the engine tensioner parts guide, rollers, etc. This will result in a very tiny amount of slack when the engine is cold, but that slack is so little it will be inconsequential as my high miles show it to be. No you shouldn't have to remove the valve cover if you are just adjusting the tension on the cct. Note that plug spanners are measured by thread size not the hex attachment. Also I've been wondering how easy it is for the chain to slip on my Honda? Now that I have the bike running, I have noticed the engine is a little rattly. Ed Yep, that was a great tensioner.
I spent part of an evening on the phone actually while an Eliminator owner was doing the adjustments. Lift the remainder of the fairing off being careful by radiators and not to catch the fairing on the side fairing brackets. I think maybe tensioner I've had to install on this bike sence 2008 when I bought it used. Note the vacuum pipe is connected on the outlet just behind the left hand side fuel hose. You will have to pull the sides of the fairing away slightly to lift them past. Mark Copyright © Krieger Cam Chain Tensioners.
You have to be aware of any ticking coming from the cam drive area when it's hot, so you can know when to adjust it. It sounds like making hard work for oneself. Thanks in advance, Convert there's really no way to measure and convey the correct tension. I guess what I'm sayin is I spend less time with it pinned doing 80 then working the clutch bouncing around rocky mtn trails. Be careful with these and do not cross thread or over-tighten them as it will damage the soft ally body of the carbs. If there was a loose spot, I would try to put it by the tensioner, and loosen the locking bolt again, and lock it again.
Figure 1 The second system, less popular and more expensive, consists of a hydraulic tensioner Figure 2 setup. By removing the plugs it helps later when it comes to turning the engine over and setting the timing as you wont be fighting against the compression. Then there is the wear pattern showing the constant push back over five teeth, the fifth just starting, and clicking forward again over and over. Now I can't say I ride this bike really hard but I'm not really that easy on it either. I don't care what the shop manual tells you how to adjust the cam chain, but thats the way I have done it since back in 1974!!! It's like a one-way check valve that extends the push rod outward to maintain the correct spring tension on the chain, but cannot back up. If yours jumped time due to the tensioner, I would imagine it was from lack of periodic adjustment, or the tensioner pre-load spring was no good when you adjusted it last.
Do not drop anything inside the engine. Depending on your bike's mileage and history, it may well be time for a new one. That wasn't too bad was it…… :-} I will kindly ask you to please keep this thread on topic and strictly to questions regarding the above guide and fitting of manual cam chain tensioners. Remove the left side cover for multi-cylinder engines. You actually motivated me to go out to the garage and make some use of the old cylinder and piston. Yea, I had 2 failed.
And you're right on all fronts. Too much tension wouldn't be good either. Remove Airbox and Carburettors 1. Remove these being careful not to drop them inside the carb throat. You can then re-connect both fuel lines to the petcock and re-connect the vacuum pipe that goes on the outlet towards the rear right behind the left fuel hose. You need to look straight on at eye level through the inspection hole and you will see the alignment mark just under the T.