On the drivers side, our installer had to reach up and around the parking brake assembly to get to the access hole. It is also possible to use a screwdriver or scraper blade to get at the clips. Each wire should go power in one postion but not the other. The blue and black motor wires are also attached to the motor at this time. The wiring harness supplied with the switch kit needs to be carefully routed under the dash. Electric Life kits include almost everything necessary for a successful power window installation. This article is reposted with permission from Removing The Door Panels In order to install the power window kit, we must gain access to the doors interior.
After all of the rivets are drilled out the regulator is pulled away from the studs on the glass and the short channel is pulled out its holes in the door. Removing manual regulators The next step in the process is to remove the manual window regulators from the doors. You may, however, find it necessary to purchase misc. The hole is then cut out with a Dremmel tool. Our installer opened up the tape on the wiring harness that comes from the ignition switch. The glass may need to be moved either up or down in order to line it up. This plastic sheet is very important.
The studs on the body of the regulator are lined up with the 4 holes in the door. Finding the motor connector, once the unit is mounted in the door, can be a little tricky. It's a lot easier to have the hole a little too small and file it out to the proper size. In the above photo, you can see the steering column just above the test light. This is done so the channels don't fall off when we put the assembly back in the door.
Installing the switches and wiring We have chosen to install the Electric Life 4990-10-420 inline, flush mount switch kit, with push-pull style switches. Our installer uses a forked door panel remover to remove these clips. For all you auto owners with power windows. The nuts are fastened to the studs and tightened. Hope this saves some of you money.
The center pins in the rivets are punched in, using a hammer and punch. The remaining trim pieces at the top of the panel are carefully unclipped and removed from the door. The nuts at the holding the short balance channel is tightened up in the same position it was taken off. Good luck and kind regards. The regulator assembly is inserted into the door and the short channel is finger tightened to the door. Next, we need to carefully remove the vapor barrier from the door. The 2 nuts that hold the balance channel to the door are removed.
The channels that were saved in the previous step are now installed onto our new Electric Life regulators. This seemed to be the case. It will last 10 times longer than the dime store stuff. The insulation on the gray wire is stripped back about a quarter of an inch and the red wire from the power window switch kit is wrapped around it and soldered in place. Once the wires were through to the door jamb, they were routed through the rubber boot and into the door. Once the wires are all connected properly, the ignition key is turned on and the system is tested.
The photo above shows what the top view of the assembly should look like. First I tested the motor. Any other bolt or screw will also work, provided that the paint is cleaned off from the body where the ground ring will contact. It should be very easy. The nuts on the long channel are then tightened. You can try closing by manually turning the motor. Press and hold the window button.
Wiring diagrams can be confusing, so a little extra time is spent to make sure all of our connections are correct. Without it the cardboard and other materials used in the door panel will eventually be ruined. The regulator body is held in place with 4 large rivets. The center of this clip is pressed in slightly to release it and the clip is pulled out of the panel. The following installation was done on a Pickup truck. Our installer works his way around the panel until everything is loose. The window is rolled down a few inches so that the nut that holds the channel to the glass is lined up with the hole just to the side of the speaker.
If it does it is likely a physical resistance in the window track. Just hook up wires from the positive and negative of your truck battery. Incidentally, is a nice tutorial on repairs of power windows in general. Check both switches using the dome light trick. Our installer used a test light to verify that the gray wire with a yellow tracer was a good power source with the key in the on position. It is possible to move the window regulator by supplying 12 volts to the blue wire and ground to the black wire.