Or an ignition switch issue? Fill it through the fill hole until fluid runs out. Thanks for all the help. Here are some wiring diagrams below and guide on how to test for power, it sounds like a switch has gone out. Does anyone have a diagram of what each pin does? If not, repair open in Light Blue wire between front axle solenoid and transfer case switch. Dan Update: Thanks for the help! I also tested the old actuator.
With ignition on, connect test light to ground and backprobe Brown wire terminal at transfer case switch connector. They changed just about everything in 03. Need to go over the old harness first to see what needs addressed or repaired before even thinking of making any changes. Theres a dead spot in there then it kicks in. I have 3 buttons on the dash one is 2wd one is 4wdh and one is 4wdl. Yes The new style has four pins i think! I may never know for sure. If no buttons are pressed, and the transfer case shift control module detects a voltage level outside the possible range approx.
Their was no power getting up to the actuator. A harness repair was in order. Hope this helps a bit and good luck! They will keep flashing until I switch back to 2wd. . You might originate from an online search engine, then find this site. The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage.
Besides, I need the 5. Test power to transfer case switch. Ok, I put the truck in the garage where I could get some light on the situation. A quick test of solenoid operation; with the transmission harness disconnected and the test harness attached apply 12 volts to terminal E while grounding terminal A or terminal B listen for the clicking of the solenoid. But as soon as I place the transmission fuse in, the voltage from the ignition switch drops to either 1. Here is an old thread where I supplied a link to a great tutorial by a previous member: Check Post 6. When each of the switches is depressed they will complete a circuit through their own specific resistor.
Seems like a complete waste of time to use the 2005 stuff!! When I got on the paved road I took it out of 4wd. The only culprit left was the wiring harness between the fuse and front axle motor. The transfer case module sends 8 volts to the switches, then monitors the return circuit to determine whether any of the switches is depressed. The second picture was online but it is exactly the same thing. I have been trying to find out why my 4x4 is not working for weeks. Jerry Some things I forgot to mention.
The truck just about sinks to the axle and then gets stuck. Ive checked the 4wd system think the front actuator didnt release but all is fine there aswell as shaft disengagment. You currently have 0 posts. The outcomes of the gathering are published on this web site. The open hernia surgery was terrible.
I have the actual floor shifter I don't know if this makes a difference. Wait a minimum of two minutes and 30 seconds, then replace fuse. Well I found this thread a little late to help some of you, but if possible replace the thermal actuator with the motored one. If it is the actuator and I take it out will the gear oil drain out when it is removed if so where and how much oil do I replace it with. Just a better design or are the front diffs different yielding the change in actuators? Thanks, Phil Phil, No problem. The light never went on, and I could tell it never engaged still could spin the rear tires. Hopes this helps I have got a 1994 chevrolet 1500 four wheel drive pickup and have been having some problems with the four wheel drive it will not go into four wheel drive I replaced the acuator switch in it but it did not do any good it still won't go into four wheel drive checked the fuses all good and my cousin tested the wires and he is saying I am not getting any electrical current he is saying that it is a bad wire somewhere between the fuse box and the front axle the transmission is going in and my four wheel drive shaft is locking in but the four wheel drive will not go in I was wondering if you could tell me what is wrong with it Hi, on my K1500.
If test light lights, replace front axle solenoid and proceed to next step. The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. The codes the computer gave me were all solenoid related. He made the old style actuator work with what i assumed was just a switch in the cab for the actuator and the existing button for the T-case. It is located under the upper plenum on the intake manifold. When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator. I know for sure that the hubs aren't locking and that the front driveshaft isn't turning.
However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. Was that 13v using the ground at the connector for the actuator? I understand that the brown wire is the feed, but where does it connect. Making me think that the part the the harness plugs into has failed. You currently have 0 posts. Too many differences in the 02 versus the 05 harness. I could hear the encoder motor at the transfer case working, which confirmed my scan data and helped me find a diagnostic direction.
Drivetrain - Slow Or No Engagement of Front Axle. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. Ive checked voltage to the actuater and getting 12volts. Wait three seconds, then observe transfer case switch status lamps. I have one of each the new style and old style front actuator kicking around and was wondering how each works when wired up. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! Explain the flashing in detail, and I will provide you with the info that I have.